1. For longer life with your saw blade, your saw and equipment must be in proper condition. Whenever you install a new blade, check your arbor shaft for radial and axial play. Try moving the shaft back and forth, and in and out. Any movement indicates the arbor shaft needs adjustment, new bearings, or replacement.
Lapidary blades are manufactured with the arbor hole .005" oversize to provide a snug fit on the shaft. If the shaft is worn, the blade will not spin concentrically with the arbor.
The machine should be located on a level floor or platform so that it will not vibrate during operation. All belts should be properly tensioned.
2. Flanges support the blade over a large surface area and help prevent deflection at the beginning and ending of a cut where there is little or no workpiece support. They must measure at least one quarter of the blade diameter. Make certain the flanges are smooth, flat and parallel, without gouges or burns on the surfaces. Flanges must be recessed about three quarters of their diameter from their center. This provides support to the blade around its outer area while avoiding distortion of its center core.
3. A lapidary diamond saw blade requires a lubricant which also works as a coolant. An ample supply must be directed into the saw cut to lubricate the blade rim and workpiece, and to flush out all debris. A light cutting oil is best, and is required for most slabbing operations. A water soluble oil or plain water can sometimes be used in trimming operations. Rust inhibitors should be used and extra care taken to prevent rusting of the blade and/or saw.
4. With a new blade it is best to make your first cut using a soft, abrasive material. This will assure that the blade is properly broken in by bringing the rim into concentricity with the arbor and will open up the rim, increasing diamond protrusion.
5. Start cuts by feeding in the workpiece when the blade is running at operating speed. Make sure the surface of the workpiece will not cause the blade to deflect at point of contact. If the blade starts cutting to either side of its plane of rotation, you will get a nonparallel cut and even damage to the blade.
When a cut is almost complete, a break will often occur, leaving a jagged spur. This spur can damage the blade. To prevent this, in feed pressure should be reduced or stopped near the end of the cut. Saws with automatic power cut-off, when properly set, will do this for you. With screw feeds, the workpiece and vise can be hand fed.
6. A diamond blade should be reversed occasionally to insure even wear and long life. A diamond blade can become glazed over at its cutting edge especially when cutting hard, dense material. To sharpen the blade, make a few cuts in a soft, abrasive material. This will generally abrade away some of the metal bond and rim and expose more diamond.
source : www.diamondpacific.com
Lapidary blades are manufactured with the arbor hole .005" oversize to provide a snug fit on the shaft. If the shaft is worn, the blade will not spin concentrically with the arbor.
The machine should be located on a level floor or platform so that it will not vibrate during operation. All belts should be properly tensioned.
2. Flanges support the blade over a large surface area and help prevent deflection at the beginning and ending of a cut where there is little or no workpiece support. They must measure at least one quarter of the blade diameter. Make certain the flanges are smooth, flat and parallel, without gouges or burns on the surfaces. Flanges must be recessed about three quarters of their diameter from their center. This provides support to the blade around its outer area while avoiding distortion of its center core.
3. A lapidary diamond saw blade requires a lubricant which also works as a coolant. An ample supply must be directed into the saw cut to lubricate the blade rim and workpiece, and to flush out all debris. A light cutting oil is best, and is required for most slabbing operations. A water soluble oil or plain water can sometimes be used in trimming operations. Rust inhibitors should be used and extra care taken to prevent rusting of the blade and/or saw.
4. With a new blade it is best to make your first cut using a soft, abrasive material. This will assure that the blade is properly broken in by bringing the rim into concentricity with the arbor and will open up the rim, increasing diamond protrusion.
5. Start cuts by feeding in the workpiece when the blade is running at operating speed. Make sure the surface of the workpiece will not cause the blade to deflect at point of contact. If the blade starts cutting to either side of its plane of rotation, you will get a nonparallel cut and even damage to the blade.
When a cut is almost complete, a break will often occur, leaving a jagged spur. This spur can damage the blade. To prevent this, in feed pressure should be reduced or stopped near the end of the cut. Saws with automatic power cut-off, when properly set, will do this for you. With screw feeds, the workpiece and vise can be hand fed.
6. A diamond blade should be reversed occasionally to insure even wear and long life. A diamond blade can become glazed over at its cutting edge especially when cutting hard, dense material. To sharpen the blade, make a few cuts in a soft, abrasive material. This will generally abrade away some of the metal bond and rim and expose more diamond.
source : www.diamondpacific.com
